For those who have never heard of them the Farne Islands are a group of 28 islands (at low water) off the coast of Northumberland and home to an amazing array of nesting sea birds.
The long weekend was arranged by Adrian and included additional members from Dereham Canoe Club and Bungay Canoe Club.
All, except two, camped under canvass at Beadnell Bay Camp site which is right next to the beach. Perfect you might think. However, it turned out that it wasn’t just the paddling that would be hard work. Before going anywhere all of the kayaks had to be manhandled across the main road that runs between Beadnell and Seahouses, dodging the traffic. Then manhandled over the gate on the other side of the road followed by more manhandling through the dunes to be finally manhandled to a gap in the rocks somewhere along the beach where we could get into the sea. However, as they say, many hands make light work, well sort of….
Our first planned paddle was on Friday. Due to the strength and direction of the wind, a force 4 - 5 Westerly, it was felt that a crossing to the Farne Islands would not be possible and it was decided that we would head North up the coast towards Bamburgh Castle and hope to gain some shelter from the wind by keeping tucked into the coast. This was only partially successful due to the coast being relatively low lying. The swell kept us on our toes especially with the wind coming from the side. We beached under the shadow of Bamburgh Castle and had lunch. Roger went round the group asking if any of us would like to try for the Inner Farne Island even though the wind was gusting. Three of us said we would like to try while the others paddled back the way we had come.
Getting to the Inner Farne was easy as the Westerly wind just blew us there. Things started to get interesting as we approached the island with the swell growing and becoming choppy as the waves reflected off the cliffs. With waves breaking over my deck from the side these were challenging conditions for me and I recalled what Roger had said when previously discussing this type of situation “Just keep paddling” and I did. As we got close to the island were surrounded by all manner of sea birds. Puffins, Guillemots and Razorbills were the most prominent. The air seemed full of them and their noise and so close. Wonderful. Marauding sea gulls hung low overhead hovering in the wind waiting for a chance to steal a freshly caught fish from a Puffin or Guillemot before it could be swallowed. I was trying to take all of this amazing scene in and remain upright at the same time. A triumph of multitasking 😊.
We made for the shelter the other side of the island offered allowing us to take a breather. This rock in the North Sea was loud with the conversation of birds and with thousands of them dumping on it an assault on ones sense of smell. After a rest we broke out once more into the wind and the swell to make our way back to the mainland and left the avian hubbub behind. Our paddle back was hard work until we got close to shore and the wind eased and the swell settled. The radios came in handy as Jeff guided us in to a place to land amongst the rocks which was very difficult to see from on the water. All in all a very satisfying first paddle of 18.4km.
Saturday morning saw yet another breezy day with a North Westerly blowing. At the paddle briefing it was decided to head South towards Dunstanburgh Castle. We paddled as a group to Beadnell Point. Here we split into two groups. One group followed the coast to try and benefit from being in the Lee of the land, the other group taking the direct but more exciting route across the bay battling the wind and swell. After a couple of hours we turned in and beached in Embleton Bay, probably a mile short of the castle. Shortly after landing the other group arrived and we all set about eating our lunch.
Heading back was the same format with one group hugging the shore and the other taking the direct route. For me the paddle wasn’t as challenging as the previous day but it was certainly enough and 13.6km of great fun.
Another night that we would all sleep well.
Sunday saw the Westerly wind stronger still and no kayaking was to be had because of the risk of being blown out to sea. It was felt that a boat trip out to the Farne Islands was a must and so once we had sorted ourselves out made our way to Seahouses to book up. In the harbour we booked up with Billy Shiel’s boat trips. Very good value with a one and a half hour trip around the whole group of the Farne Islands.
It was a great trip but not quite the same as being on the water with the birds.
All in all a great weekend with great company which I would happily repeat. The only improvement would have been less wind allowing for everyone to paddle to and explore the Farne Islands group. Martin
Photos supplied by:
Martin, John, Ian Woodland
and Ian Pratt
