A Weekend in Wareham
By Roger Simmons


Date: 19th - 22nd May 2022 Location: Redcliffe, Dorset



As I sit here, sporting a smoking jacket, string vest tucked into my underpants and both feet in one of those massive sheepskin slippers your granny used to have, I reflect on the weekend just passed.

I also ponder how 'Pure Cremations' know how old I am or where I live and how they feel it is their duty to send me letters informing me of their services. Do they know something I don't? More perplexing is how can there possibly be 6856 reviews on their website whereby giving them a five star rating? Have I missed something? 


Day one of a long weekend at Wareham saw a group of ten paddlers gathered on the launch slipway putting the finishing touches to the unavoidable faff that goes with kayaking. Paddle plans had already been changed thanks to the brisk westerly wind. This being plan B, we planned a paddle to the relatively sheltered waters off Poole Harbour. 

Tidal flow in the harbour is minimal. The harbour entrance at Sandbanks/South Haven Point to the east is very narrow, so much so, a chain ferry operates between the two headlands and the journey takes all of four minutes. The width restriction means the same high and low tide between there and the River Frome to the west differ by about 4 hours. Amazing, considering the two places are only about 12 kilometres (8 miles) apart. 

We had an easy 5 kilometre paddle thanks to the following wind before the vastness of Poole Harbour opened up before us. With a slight swell on the water, another 2 kilometres saw us at Lake Pier, by coincidence the home of Poole Canoe club, on the north of the harbour for lunch. 

Back on the water, the predicted winds continued unabated. We regrouped at Gold Point a short paddle south. There it was decided three of us would circumnavigate Brownsea Island further to the east whilst the rest of the group did their thing in perhaps more sheltered waters. 

So it was that Nigel, Ian and myself headed off. Three kilometres later we found ourselves hugging the north shore of Brownsea Island. In no time at all we had rounded the east side, past Branksea Castle, waiting patiently while a dredger manoeuvred from its berth before continuing. It was decided, thanks to the unceasing and possibly increasing wind, to head for home and not venture over towards the harbour entrance, knowing we had a slog ahead of us. And so it proved to be!


Now heading west, there was nowhere to hide. Constantly taking transits we gradually crept past Furzey island to our left, making almost painfully slow progress. Thankfully, the monotony of paddling and only creeping forward was broken by the oncoming wind driven swell. 


With Brownsea Island behind, Patchins Point then Gold Point were eventually passed to our left as we reached Wareham Channel. Any hope of the wind easing thanks to shelter from the shore was short lived. The best we could do was tuck in behind each channel marker buoy for a few moments respite as we edged our way upwind. 


Eventually, marker buoys gave way to with us marking the ever narrowing channel, which gave way to moored yachts. Eventually the slipway came into sight thus ending a slightly more like hard work than it needed to be but nonetheless pleasurable 28 kilometre paddle. 


Day two saw, thanks to a few aching muscles, a depleted group make the car journey to Portland Harbour, construction of which began in in 1849 and completed in 1872 and remains one of the largest man-made harbour in the world.


We stood on the steep stony beach sheltered from the still slightly prohibitive westerly winds discussing the plans for the paddle. 

It was decided to follow the harbour round to the north, out through the breakwater, head north along the coast to Weymouth for tea and cakes, before returning to more tea and medals at the Chesel beach cafe which, if anything like the car parking charges, was going to be expensive. 


Having made our way as planned, almost to the breakwater, a slight technical equipment issue developed with one of the group. Being a caring, sharing bunch that we are, we paddled back to the launch point as one where, after a short discussion and in the best traditions of keen kayakers, we had lunch. Suitable refreshed but one man down, we headed back out to the breakwater to see the lighthouse (not to be confused with Portland Bill lighthouse). Having paddled out of the harbour, along the outside of the breakwater, and back at the far end, we returned to shore, again into a character building head wind. 


Day three and back to a near full complement of kayakers, we took the short drive to Shell Bay, Studland, south east of South Haven Point. Getting the kayaks across the beach was considered by some to be enough of a warm up, so, after a short briefing we headed off to see Old Harry Rock, a chalk formation at Handfast point, which marks the Eastern most point of the Jurassic coast, then onward to Swanage for ice cream. 


The wind had dropped and the sun shone. There was little movement on the water save the swell caused by passing boats. Reaching Old Harry, we chatted with members of Poole Canoe club who were also making the most of the late spring weather, posed for photos, then headed off. Two of our group called it a day as they had a very long drive home and headed back. 


After ice cream (thanks Adrian) and a leg stretch at Swanage we bumbled back, half killing ourselves carrying the kayaks non stop to the cars to keep the sand off them, then back to the camp site for a relatively early finish. 


Those that needed too, headed home. Those remaining packed up the non essential kit then sat around chatting until the sun went down on what had been a most enjoyable weekend. 


Thanks to everyone, particularly Adrian for suggesting the trip and organising the paddles, not forgetting everyone who gave me teas, cake and biscuits. 


Here's to the next trip! 


Roger

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