Friday 28th May 2021 saw me trundling westbound along the M4 heading to a campsite (Rhosson Ganol 01437 720608) near St David’s, Wales. 

St David’s is Britain’s smallest city and resting place of St David. After many hours on the road, having travelled from Wiltshire via Bristol, it too was my resting place, although somewhat less permanent. 

I was looking forward to a week’s kayaking in Pembrokeshire, primarily for the kayaking itself but also because we were staying on a camp site and travelling each day to various locations to launch for day trips, as opposed to my previous trip, island hopping and wild camping. The prospect of a shower and toilet filled me with joy. Yes, I am that shallow and yes, that easily pleased!

There, the following day, I meet Gethin (Sea Kayaking Wales 07899 662043) along with Richard and Paul. They were to be the leaders of a group of 11 paddlers for the week. With a ratio of 4:1 it was easy and practical to split into smaller groups if necessary. 

Each morning we met for a briefing. Weather, tide, tidal flows, weather forecast, general conditions and individual requirements were discussed. Options for the days paddling were suggested, decision made and having loaded up the necessary kit, we were off. 

Ramsey Island (an RSPB sanctuary where landing is prohibited) was one of two options for the first day. We launched at Porthclais Harbour, a picturesque little place a short drive away, approached via steep banked, single track roads. 

On the water we followed the coast westward entering the Sound of Ramsey then headed north, the plan being to circumnavigate the island anticlockwise making use of the tidal flood first (northbound), then the ebb once we reached the west side of the island (southbound).

About half way along the length of the island are The Bitches, a set of rocks jutting out into the sound resulting in a fierce tide race. After a short surf session there we headed off to less exposed waters exploring the cliffs and caves. 

Reaching the north end of the island we headed west then picked up the south going ebb tide and enjoyed a relatively easy paddle, rounded the south end of the island then headed back to The Bitches for those who wanted, to brush up on their moving water skills. Forty minutes later, not wishing to push our luck and, given the ebb was now at its peak, we ferry glided across the Sound of Ramsey back to Porthclais and a well earned stretch, happy that day one had seen an iconic paddle ticked off the list. 

On a windy second day we launched at Abercastle and followed the coastline heading northward to Strumble Head followed the next day by Fishguard to Dinas Head, a much easier day with very little wind and calm waters but still a 22-kilometre (12 mile) paddle. To the west of Ramsey Island in St George’s channel are a line of islands known as the Bishops and Clerks Islands. The most southerly (Emsger) is the home of South Bishop lighthouse, built in 1839, owned by Trinity House, electrified in 1959 and automated in 1983. It stands 44 meters above mean high water with a tower height of 11 meters. However, none of this was of any interest to me. I just knew it was about 4 miles off shore from where we were to launch and I was going to paddle there, along with Gethin and four other paddlers. 

Emsger is situated roughly west of the south of Ramsey Island. Having launched at Porthclais and reached the south of Ramsey, because of the strength of the flooding tide, we ferry glided out towards the lighthouse. To ensure we weren’t swept past the island our bearing was 30 degrees off the intended destination. For most of the outward paddle, to help take our minds off the fact the lighthouse didn’t appear to be getting any closer, the sea presented a decent chop thanks to what wind there was coming from the south west, therefore with the flow. Things livened up a bit as we approached the island as the water rounded both sides of the island causing the sea state to become ‘lumpier’ with a few small breaking waves, a bit of ‘clapotis’ (nonbreaking waves reflecting back off the rocks) causing the sea to appear to boil. 



Once we’d rounded the far side we regrouped in an eddy at the foot of the steps to the lighthouse. Nick, the only paddler with a plastic boat, risked all for the cudos of landing and climbed to the top of the island whilst the rest of us remained in our boats, making the most of the rest and breaking out our tea and sandwiches.   

We continued north east to the island of Daufraich then north onto Carreg Rhosson which took us to a point roughly west of the northern most point of Ramsey Island. After fighting against the now south going ebb tide we regrouped and eddy hopped around the top of Ramsey Island and into Ramsey Sound where we had a fairly easy paddle and ferry glide back to Porthclais. Five hours after launching, six weary paddlers loaded their kayaks onto their vehicles for the short drive back to the camp site delighted to have completed yet another iconic paddle. Looking back, I’d be so bold as to say that was the best days paddle I’ve ever had. Truly brilliant. Thank you Gethin, Bill, Nick, Rob and Janet. 

The following day, other than the paddle along the Porthgain coast being in

force 5 winds with a slight chop, the day is memorable because of the queue afterwards at the chip shop. Perhaps slightly less memorable for me though because, being a man of no patience whatsoever when it comes to technology or queueing, I left everyone else to it and headed back to the camp site for what had become my staple diet when away, pasta. 



The ultimate days paddle was also very memorable, this time for the right reason. A circumnavigation of Skomer and Skokholm Islands. 

We drove to Martin’s Haven via some of the narrowest and windiest roads Wales has to offer, parked in a car park at the top of the hill and trolleyed the kayaks to the tiny harbour. 

Having launched we headed west to Skomer, rounding the island anticlockwise then headed south to Skokholm, enjoying 2-meter swells from the exposed seas to our right, rounding the southern tip of Skokholm and returning via much more sheltered but fairly quickly north flowing water. 

Another three-and-a-half-hour paddle with no landing complete. Indeed, an excellent way to end the week. 

Having enjoyed such a good week’s paddling, we talked ourselves out of a paddle on the Saturday, instead opting to walk into St David’s for tea and Cornish pasty.   

Roger